During Christmas time (Natale) there is a special atmosphere in the villages and towns. Most of the tourists have left Italy by now, but the inhabitants provide a cosy hustle and bustle with all kinds of activities. Every self-respecting village has one or more elaborate mangers (presepe). Some villages are known for this and go very far in this.
Just a few kilometres from Casa Trasimonte, for example, is the town of Corciano, which is one of the most beautiful borghi in Italy. During the Christmas period there are life-size figures in a large part of the village. These depict all kinds of biblical and medieval scenes. Of course, the nativity scene with all the accompanying extras and animals should not be missing. The faces of these figures are beautifully worked out in red terracotta.
Christmas time is also experienced intensely in the village of Gubbio, a little further away. Here, too, the streets are full of statues and reference is made to the former medieval handicrafts with washhouses, blacksmiths, bakers etc.. We also find the three wise men (I tre Re Magi) on their way back (with camel) to the beautifully decorated nativity scene further down the road.
Gubbio is also known for its big Christmas lights. Since 1981, the mountain (Monte Ingino) behind the village has been fully illuminated every year in the shape of a Christmas tree (albero di Natale) with an illuminated star. It takes about 1900 hours to get the cables (almost 8 km long) in place and to light up all the lights (over 700 in total). From the base to the star at the top this tree measures about 700 metres. In 1991 the Guinness Book of World Records listed this Christmas tree as the 'largest Christmas tree in the world'.
Switching on the lights is always a solemn moment. In 2011 this was done by Pope Benedict XVI with an application from the rooms of the Vatican in Rome, some 230 km away. It is not entirely certain whether the lighting can still be seen there. President Giorgio Napolitano and the later Pope Francis have already had the honour of lighting it. The lights remain on until 6 January (la Befana).
Even in the smallest, most unsightly villages, something special is done during this period. About half an hour's drive from casa Trasimonte is the tiny village of Antria. This is no more than a medieval entrance gate, a few houses around a square, a well and an old tree. But in the period around Christmas the presepe vivente is organised here in the evening, this is the 'living nativity scene'. The concept does not need much explanation: Joseph, Mary and baby Jesus are embodied by real people. Of course there are also real horses, chickens and sheep. But there is more. Also all the old crafts are revived in the village. Bread is baked in a wood oven. The blacksmith burns the coals hot. The woodworker saws through tree stumps. Baskets are woven, etc. All this of course takes place entirely in old costumes and in the beautiful setting of this hilltop medieval village. Add to this the smell of freshly baked biscuits and honestly sweet mulled wine (vin brulè) and Christmas is very near.
Traditionally, Italians celebrate Christmas with family. In Italy they say: 'Natale con i Tuoi, Pasqua con chi Vuoi' (Christmas with his family and Easter with whoever they want).
After Christmas it is not over yet. Of course there will be Epiphany on 6 January. Everything will be dominated by la befana. This is a witch from Italian folklore. On 6 January she brings presents (candy) to (good) children in Italy. Naughty children get coal or dark candy.
The Christmas period in Italy is very atmospheric with all the lights and activities outside. And inside you can sit by the fireplace in the evening with a glass of wine. The grapes are picked and harvested. The work is done. You can enjoy it together with family and friends. In January and February the fireplace will burn every day and evening. This is usually the coldest period in central Italy, although there are often very nice sunny periods. In any case, during this period the Italians dress as if they were living in Antarctica. This warm-blooded breed is especially looking forward to the new spring from March-April. And then it almost becomes summer again....
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